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Athens

Craggy coves and beautiful beaches comprise the resplendent mix that is the Athens Riviera. Therefore at the end of an autumn day, I found myself with a not unpleasant dilemma: where to go to relax bones still aching for a last splash of warm weather. For this city offers something that many continental destinations cannot: a coastline of over 60 kilometers featuring beaches many a Aegean isle would envy.

During the off-season, the shores of the region still have a magnetic allure, as I found when swimming into a fading sun across the Vouliagmeni Bay. For those looking for rejuvenation in azure seas primed to turn orange pink as the sun sets, swimming off one of the Riviera’s accessible or exclusive beaches does not let you down.

With ocean spray still clinging to my skin, I sat at Sardelaki, a tavern whose Mediterranean fare is as excellent as the spectacular view of the inlet it sits on. In a nod to times past, the meze is served on big platters.

Athens is as celebrated for its elevations as its shore: natural elevations within view of the Acropolis that make it a treasure trove for amblers when the weather cools. For those who want to escape a city that extends across almost 200 square miles, these rocky outcrops – bearers of fabulous names such as the Hill of the Nymphs and the Hill of the Muses – are a must-see.

In my view, this ancient capital is Europe’s most spiritual and magnificent.

If you climb the summit of Lycabettus Hill, the city’s tallest peak, either by foot or on the funicular rail car, the reward is a stunning view of the whole Argo-Saronic Gulf and the islands beyond.

If you want to stay centrally, the historic Plaka neighborhood remains the best base. The traditional Adrian hotel has rooms looking on to the northern face of the Parthenon from about €140 B&B. In the vicinity, a popular restaurant is a preferred eatery with locals and serves the juiciest lamb chops. With views of the Acropolis, Athens’ rooftop restaurants are highly evocative and perfect for mild fall nights – for a real treat visit a top restaurant or the award-winning Macris.

Palermo

Think Neapolitan pizza is the last word in pizza? Reconsider. In Palermo they prefer Sicilian pizza, a soft, well-risen slice of bread topped with rich, onion-laden sauce and sprinkled with local cheese and herbs. Hearty, satisfying and cozy, it’s available in bakeries, stands and stalls all over the city (Via Maqueda in the old town usually has several vendors).

We try it at a stand on a central square, near where we’re staying. A local spot often has big lines, but they move quickly as employees dish out slices of sfincione, as well as rice balls and chickpea fritters. There are a few tables under the trees outside, but we dine as we stroll into the city along tight a street. This is a nice walk in autumn but wouldn’t always be in summer. As hot spells rolled over Europe this year, the mercury in Sicily topped 40C in the shadow. At the end of July one sunbaked corner hit a record 70C at ground level.

We stroll the city and savour how its rich past is written in its architecture.

Now, as the climate rise to 24C by mid-afternoon, we can explore the city and savour how its heritage is visible in its streets. Passing baroque and art nouveau palaces, and Casa Stagnitta, the city’s oldest coffee roastery, we take in the unique architecture of the 12th-century church of San Cataldo; a main square, with its Renaissance water feature, placed under colonial times; and the grand church, built on the site of a ninth-century Islamic temple.

On the way back we detour to the local market, the origins of which also date back over 1,000 years. Some criticize its touristification, but it is still noisy and highly dramatic. Feeling brave, we pause for a classic spleen sandwich, which is surprisingly OK, with its slightly sweet “meat” balanced by cheese topping. The stallholder is particularly proud of his offal specialty but, I’m sorry, no amount of salt and lemon can make those a delight for me.

We’re glad to return to more peaceful La Kalsa, the historic district to the eastern part, which was bombed in the second world war and languished for decades before being revitalized this century. Maison Butera (sea-view doubles from $175 with breakfast) is a four-room guesthouse with many attractions nearby. Nearby is a historic palace, a baroque grand building renovated and relaunched in 2021 to house the Valsecchi art collection, which features works by Gilbert & George and pop art icons.

Next day we walk 10 minutes to the city's Botanical Garden, with its record-breaking multi-trunk fig tree. Birds are chirping loudly as the light shines. Soon we’ll be in the UK, the time will change and the cold season will begin. We relish a final days in the sunshine.

Vienna

While lamenting the end of summer and spending time at seaside spots and bathing spots on the branches of the river, I’m now seeking a different color. Vienna is a metropolis of green spaces and manicured gardens, meadow sweeps and woodland belts, which exchange their green canopy for a rusty amber and yellowish tint the Austrians call golden autumn.

I depart from the impressive buildings and cobblestones of the historic centre. To the southwest of it, Schloss Schönbrunn Park splays from the grand Habsburg summer residence, where the gold isn’t limited for the interior, and leads into corridors of towering bronzed hedgerows and curved walkways that go to the butter-yellow palace.

To the eastern part, in the city’s Prater Park, I stroll beneath the chestnut trees of the main avenue, an path that’s almost three miles long and ancient. On the edge of the park, the vintage-designed Superbude Prater hotel (rooms from €78 B&B) is a perfectly placed retreat.

In a city with hundreds of urban farms (thanks to a dedicated effort to encouraging green spaces and building community spirit), autumn brings a feast of seasonal ingredients on restaurant offerings. Pumpkin cream soup is the classic dish – best devoured in a wood-panelled Beisl such as the decorated a popular spot – and accompanied by a Wiener Schnitzel.

Vienna is a place of green areas and gardens that swap their emerald halo for a golden and ochre glow.

Unbeknown to many, the capital is the sole continental city to grow wine within its urban area, with 700 hectares of vineyards. There are 14 designated city hiking trails, known as Stadtwanderwege. Track 1 takes you through the wine country of a district. Settle in a slope wine tavern such as a local winery, sipping a zesty grüner veltliner with a Brettljause (an assortment of cold cuts and dairy), while enjoying the beautiful urban view.

The hours are getting shorter, but now is the ideal moment to wander among Vienna’s grand buildings, museums and old homes – a {cultural crop|